The photo editor features an intuitive Smart Move tool that automatically detects image’s contents like shapes, buildings or text layer, and provides ready options with respect to the detected images. Luminar Neo, created by Skylum, is a great Pixelmator alternative. Pixelmator offers options like photo-retouching, paint and draw, texts, shapes, sketches and lots more. The app is an example of the several image editors that photographers and graphic artists turn to in times of demanding photo-editing tasks. Thanks again to all, hopefully this is useful to other folks too.Pixelmator is a Mac-exclusive photo editor that offers fast and easy options to achieving fantastic photo editing results. So can anybody explain? For example, is "32 bit TIFF" a new format? Is the 32 bit in that actually 32 bit *per channel* rather than *total*? So if that file only contained R, G, B - 16 x 3 = 48 bits (or, if alpha is also included, 64 bits?).ġ) old-school bitmaps have long been 32 bit - (R, G, B, A each getting 8 bits)Ģ) new high fidelity TIFF is referred to as 32 bit TIFFģ) exporting from Lightroom seems to let you export what seems to be 48 bit TIFF. On top of that, when I export from Lightroom, I can export TIFF as either 8 or 16 bit per channel. For example, I gather you can combine multiple exposures into one 32 bit TIFF - and wind up with much more room to recover highlights and shadows - meaning, more fidelity is in the file. Thanks, so I'm a bit confused by what these 32 bit TIFFs are - when talking about a bitmap file, I would think 32 bit means 8 bits each for R, G, B, and another 8 bits for alpha - so that's 32 bits total.īut these "Pro HDR 32 bit TIFFs" seem to be something other than that. If you need more help on this we can explore some more. If you spend a lot of time on this after several months you will likely start getting good results. Once you have the technique in-camera there is a big post-processing learning curve, once the merges are done. Getting your technique correct in-camera is the first hurdle. Your concerns about quality are valid but I can tell you from experience that what you do in-camera is crucial to a good result.īe prepared to make this a learning curve - it is highly unlikely that you will nail a final result on the first try. If you are doing a merge to HDR create a 32-bit TIFF to bring back into Lightroom. In Photoshop once the merge to panorama is done bring a 16-bit TIFF back into Lightroom. If that is not possible then make DNG files instead. Instead, if your copy of Lightroom and Photoshop/ACR are co-ordinated you can send the raw files instead. Step 3 is wrong - do not make TIFF's for your merges. I do merge to panorama regularly and merge to HDR when needed. I hope somebody here will understand what I'm talking about! I want to maintain the best fidelity from LR, through the merging application, back into LR - retaining the most detail and ability to adjust highlights and shadows. Given the talk about the not-yet-released Lightroom 6 - I learned about what seems to be called a 32bit 'Pro HDR' TIFF - I also see that when exporting a TIFF from Lightroom, I have the option of selecting 8 or 16 bits per channel.Ĭan somebody possibly help me understand the difference between a 32bit 'Pro HDR' TIFF (as in the Merge option) and a 8 or 16bit TIFF as exported by LR?Ģ) I make modest adjustments, such as ensuring they have the same White Balanceģ) I export from LR - here's why I'm interested in exporting as 16 bit rather than 8 bit per channelĤ) I import those into an application that merges them - either, say, HDR or star trails.ĥ) I export from that - and here's why I'm interested in the 32bit 'Pro HDR' TIFF.Ħ) I import that back into LR and do more editing. Or it may be a series of nighttime long exposures, all stacked together to get star trails. It might be a bracketed set in an HDR type scenario. Hi all, I'm starting to experiment with combining several exposures to make one final exposure.
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